#2789, Thursday, March 3, '22: Last Rodeo in Cuenca

Reverend Ken's Travel Blog

Post 2789

- 12 years and 62 days since I started this blog -

Winter Travel Journal

(written March 3, 2022)

Read this once (it won't change for the rest of the trip(s): I'll be linking this post to Facebook. If that's how you got here, here's some background: About 12 years ago I started this blog as a food journal. I had a medical situation and needed to lose weight. Initially, that's all I did here: Journal my food intake and my weight. It contributed to helping me lose 20+% of my body weight in 6 months, and continuing has kept me on track since then. I started adding commentary after a while, originally 7 days a week, then 5, but lately it has become occasional. 

While I'm traveling, I let go of the weight-tracking and food journaling, except for the occasional food shot when I've eaten something interesting. And that's where we find ourselves now.

I can't believe I'm leaving in three days It seems like a dream. On Sunday, I'll ride the van from Cuenca to Guayaquil, this time a 4-1/2 hour trip due to road closings on the usual main road - the one that had just opened up on my way in to Cuenca two months ago. 

I am trying to make the most of my last days here.

But...

I am, again, leaving a lot undone.

I won't be taking the bus tour I always plan to take. Because I have to be out and ready to board at 9am. If you don't know, that is very early for me. I also won't get to visit Cuenca's Museum of Modern Art. I've been there at least five times (last visit and this one), without ever finding it open. Also, I won't get to eat at El Oasis, a new, slightly out-of-town restaurant that has caused a buzz for it's gourmet prix-fixe vegetarian menu. Apparently, it is becoming an international destination restaurant. 

So it goes. I have no regrets about what doesn't (or didn't) happen. That keeps me (somewhat) present.

I did, finally, reconnect with Sinfonía Tostadura y Cafetería (Symphony Roaster and Coffee Seller), where I've gotten the best coffee ever. I got a big greeting from Diego, and confirmed my love of his wonderful, fresh-picked and fresh-roasted coffee. In fact, I have been there three times in the last six days, and am writing this post there now (fourth time there).

But I digress.

Last night, Wednesday, was (probably) my final night to make some music before I leave Cuenca on Sunday. I brought my bass to Wunderbar, getting there an hour before the open mic was supposed to start. On arrival, I had the place to myself, excepting the wonderful young staff.

The room began to fill, and soon I was joined by old friend (what I call people I met on my first trip to Cuenca two years ago), Tony, who was with me at Capitán on my birthday. After I'd finished my dinner and the open mic started, with the sisters whose vocals impressed me the first time I  came to Wunderbar, old friend Anthony and his dinner-date Maria (they ate octopus at a different restaurant) showed up. 

Then, about a half-hour into the music, Betsy, the super-helpful, smart and cheerful concierge of my hotel Balcón del Arte showed up. She's been trying to see me play for over a month. 

Unfortunately, Bela, the guitarist and harp player that I'd met and jammed with at Bistro Yaku couldn't make it, although earlier we'd planned on playing together.

When my turn came, I went up to do some bass plus vocal songs. I have some songs I think come out all right in that unusual format. I got a warm reception, mostly spurred on by my friends, quickly plugged into the PA and adjusted my bass sound accordingly and launched into We Gotta Get Out Of This Place (ancient Animals cover). The reception, led by my friendly cheering section,  was great. I mean, it was really kind of overwhelming. 

Then I launched into my standard jam tune, Who Is He? (slightly less ancient Bill Withers cover), and a guitarist came out of nowhere, and started accompanying me. Perfectly! This is the thing I love about open mics/jam sessions: The unexpected, the new, the chanciness of it all. Bernard, whose name I learned afterwards, was an excellent guitarist and accompanist. I was really lucky. Finishing with No Expectations (Rolling Stones from my almost-favorite album, Beggars Banquet) was likely the last song I'll play in Cuenca. When I left the stage, again, a lot of applause and fist-bumping.

A wonderful last performance.

At Wunderbar's open mic.

With Bernard on guitar, at Wunderbar's open mic.

With Betsy at Wunderbar.

Last post, I only wrote about a single day. That left me with some pics from before that good day, right up to the day before yesterday. Here they are. I'll try and provided context in the caption. 

In a block-long alley next to the 'New' Cathedral (the one with three blue domes), outside of Distrita, where I had good octopus (see below, in the Food Comment section).

There were a lot of dramatic lights applied to buildings for Carnaval (the lo-o-ong weekend leading up to Mardi Gras). This is a particularly colorful example.

View of Carnaval fireworks from the Balcón del Arte's smoking terrace.

As I mentioned earlier, I've visited Sinfonía quite a bit recently. It's located near Parque La Madre, a beautiful little park. When I took Bela here, I had to take some pics on our walk back:

At Parque La Madre.

Bela, becoming one with Art and Nature, at Parque La Madre.

Now, only a few days left, and I have lots of plans. I'll report back soon.

 I have so much to be grateful for.

Food Comment

The octopus (aka, pulpo) at Distrita was recommended by pal Felipe, and grilled and served with delicious choclo (an Andean bean that really tastes a lot like potatoes). It was really, really good! The restaurant is also at a favorite picture spot for Cuencanos (see the pic of me above, that's Distrita behind me with the lights), and makes for good people-watching. If I have time, I'm going back!

With so many of my favorite breakfast spots closed for Carnaval, Bistro Yaku, which is in a hotel and doesn't seem to ever close, has become my go-to, and this, their vegetarian omelette, has become my go-to meal.

A new-to-me discovery at Sinfonía Tostadura y Cafetería: Pastrami, cheese and onions on toast. I was pleasantly surprised how good this was: The pastrami is crisped like bacon (a little, anyway), the grilled cheese (unknown variety) was a perfect match, and the sautéed onions were a little sweet, like hot onion relish. Delicious! 

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