Sunday, January 25, 2026

#3510: Sunday, January 25: First week in Cuenca

Post 3510
- 15 years and 25 days since I started this blog -
Travel Journal
(written January 25, 2026)
Read this once, it won't change for the rest of the trip(s): 
I'll be linking this post to Facebook. If that's how you got here, here's some background: Over 15 years ago I started this blog as a food journal. I had a Type-2 Diabetes diagnosis, and needed to lose weight. Initially, that's all I did here: Journal my food intake and my weight. It contributed to a loss of 20+% of my body weight in 6 months, and continuing has kept me on track since. I started adding commentary after a while, but recently it has been a food journal only. Except when I travel (every Winter).
While I'm traveling, I let go of the weight-tracking and food journaling (except for food photos when I've eaten something interesting or pretty). I write about my experiences, and use it as a photo dump. And that's where we find ourselves now.

- - - - - - - 

We have some catching up to do. 

After I left Chiang Mai, I went back to Syracuse. In Syracuse, I had only five days before I came down with pneumonia, and the rest of the time at home was all recuperation. I finally felt back to health only five days before I left to contine my winter travels.

I flew to Los Angeles and spent five days with my son's family, specifically paying attention to Number One Grandson Leo, two-and-a-half months old. I can't describe how happy I was during the visit. 

Then the rather absurd three-flight trip to Cuenca.

I landed in Cuenca at 7am. Even with Customs and baggage claim, I was at my 'residence,' Hostal Yakumama, at 7:30am. I sent some "arrived alive" messages, and by (estimate) 8am I was asleep. Got a solid eight hours, too.

The bad side of that is it took several days after that to get a good night's sleep... at night. I kept on taking naps - something I almost never do - and screwing up my normal sleep time. This is largely due to the period of acclimitization necessary when you spend ten months a year near sea-level and then do everything at 8400 feet above sea-level. It usually takes me three or four days. This trip, for whatever reason, it took me six days. Today, I was fine.

I've met up with most of my friends here. A few have moved out of Cuenca (to Europe) and a few non-residents aren't around yet.

For the second year in a row, I'm staying at my favorite place in Cuenca, the place I spent most of my time at for the last six years, thanks to the restaurant/music venue Bistro Yaku. In that time, it is the place I've played at the most, the place I've eaten more meals at (I have an off-menu Ken's Special breakfast here), and the place I have my now-traditional last send-off party at.

My room is on the courtyard in front of the Bistro. Thirty feet away from the front door. I've known the owner/manager and his family (brother/partner, wife, daughter) almost since they opened six years ago. I've watched them grow.

They know me, too. It's all very easy.

I've only gotten to play one night - others were scheduled, canceled. There will not be as many playing opportunities this trip. The Blues Enigma Band, who I play bass with when I'm in town, has only one scheduled gig in the five-and-a-half weeks I'm here. In the seven weeks I was here last year, we played six! 

One of the open mic host restaurants has closed. One new open mic has a very bad reputation and is at my least favorite place in Cuenca. The only other one I know of takes place at the same time as my favorite (and, at this point, last man standing) at Bistro Yaku.

In my experience, things will open up for me.

In my time here so far, I have been returning to those of my favorite places still around, so less wandering and fewer photos. The altitude acclimatization has also deterred some of my normally long walks. But I'm back now, so more photos in future blogs. Lots of food pics, though.

On to the photos:

People Pics

Claudia in Calle Santa Ana, a little alley between the 'New' Cathedral and the former monastery/school/nunnery, now housing restaurants (see below). This is a favorite place for portraits and wedding party pictures, as is the courtyard on the other side of the alley.
This 'living statue' started to move the minute he saw Claudia. They're old friends. Cuencanos are usually friendlier - just kidding, he thought these would make funny photos.
Duo-selfie with Claudia.
Laura and Randy joining me for breakfast at Bistro Yaku. You may remember them from last year, when I visited them in their countryside farm/estate for a wonderful party. Laura's birthday is the day after mine. Looking forward to celebrating.
With my friend Anthony, from Connecticut. I met him when he was staying in the same hotel on my first visit to Cuenca. He, like me - and for a few years longer than me - comes to Cuenca every winter. Over the last eight years, we've become good friends. This year, he got here a day before me.

Wandering

Technically, this isn't wandering. Here I am at 'Ken's Smoking Table' (what everybody calls it) outside my room in the courtyard of Hostal Yakumama. 
Thinking about how few photos I was taking as I passed by this very familar, famous sign and most-photographed view in Cuenca in Parque San Francisco. The day was so beautiful, and the scene so amazingly uncrowded, I took this shot even though I have dozens of similar ones. But come on, this is just beautiful. I couldn't not.
Walking toward the Goza Cafe, one of the prime places for people watching and great 'coffee and'
in Cuenca. Above, an old church now housing a missionary center gives way to Plaza Merced, with Goza on the other corner. Cuenca is just so beautiful, but in a different way at night. 
One of the three enormous doors in the front of the New Cathedral.
The courtyard of the adjacent church offices and residences. A major tourist attraction, I really like the Peruvian restaurant, El Confesionario, on the second floor with this amazing view of the three domes of the New Cathedral.
Calle Santa Anna at night. On the left is the Cathedral de la Madre Immaculata, aka the New Cathedral. It's called the New Cathedral because it took over a hundred years to complete, finally finished in the 1960s, even though it was started in the 1840s. The door on the left is the entrance to the bell tower. On the left is the former residence, monastery, nunnery, offices, now housing restaurants (mostly).

Food

This trip's first meal: Peruvian tenderloin and rice, from El Confesionario, the restaurant with THE view.
Next morning, at my 'home,' Bistro Yaku, Ken's Special: Fruits with yogurt and granola, and scrambled eggs.
Pistachio cheesecake from Goza Cafe.
I wish I had something to show the scale. This is an enormous bacon and vegetables omelet. It was more than I could finish. And it was delicious. From a newly-opened restaurant, Lumanka Concepto y Sabor.
Also from Bistro Yaku, the shrimp burger and homemade chips is just amazing.
I realize in this picture you can't tell that this is Tom Kha, Thai coconut curry soup. But this was a great surprise, very good. The last time I ate at Thai Connection was six years ago. I was unimpressed then. I'm very impressed now. My favorite (by far) Thai restaurant in Cuenca is a cab ride away. Thai Connection is around the corner and a block away. I'll definitely be back.
The amazing, rustic lasagna a la bolognese from El Mediterraneo. Food's good, and the staff make certain it's a great example of Cuenca's special brand of hospitality.


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Wednesday, December 24, 2025

#3509: Wednesday, December 24, 2025

Post 3509
- 14 years and 359 days since I started this blog -
Food and Diet
Today's Weight:                     192.3
 lbs.
Previous Weight (12/23/25):         193.0 lbs.
Net Loss/Gain:                     -  0.7 lbs.
Diet Comment
Good result from a day unusually low in vegetables. Note: No post tomorrow, Christmas Day.
Food Log
Breakfast
Skipped.
Lunch
3:15pm: 
Fried eggs and dal tadka (lentil curry) on riced cauliflower.
Dinner
11:35pm: A Quest bar.
Liquid Intake
Espressos: 1;  Coffee: 0 oz.;  Water: 32+ oz.;

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Tuesday, December 23, 2025

#3508: Tuesday, December 23, 2025

Post 3508
- 14 years and 358 days since I started this blog -
Food and Diet
Today's Weight:                     193.0
 lbs.
Previous Weight (12/22/25):         191.6 lbs.
Net Loss/Gain:                     +  1.4 lbs.
Diet Comment
And, we're back! Not from my travels (that, too, of course) but to my pre-travel weight. It's actually lower than the last weigh-in at the beginning of November, but right back to the trend line.
Food Log
Breakfast
1:35pm: Sardines on Ezekiel 4:9 sprouted grains English muffins (sardines, celery, onions, mayonnaise, Greek yogurt).
Lunch
Skipped.
Dinner
10:35pm: Mixed nuts. Cottage cheese. A Quest bar.
Liquid Intake
Espressos: 1;  Coffee: 22oz.;  Water: 32+ oz.; and a generous pour of Jameson's Irish whiskey.

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Monday, December 22, 2025

#3507: Monday, December 22, 2025

Post 3507
- 14 years and 357 days since I started this blog -
Food and Diet
Today's Weight:                     191.6
 lbs.
Previous Weight (12/19/25):         194.0 lbs.
Net Loss/Gain:                     -  2.4 lbs.
Diet Comment
And, we're back! Not my travels (that, too, of course), but to my pre-travel weight. It's actually lower than the last weigh-in at the beginning of November, but right back to the trend line.
Food Log
Breakfast
Skipped.
Lunch
4:35pm: Sausage and cabbage omelet (Italian-style chicken sausage, 3 large eggs, cabbage, onions, peppers). Buttered Ezekiel 4:9 sprouted grains English muffin.
Dinner
12:05am: Mixed nuts. A Quest bar.
Liquid Intake
Espressos: 1;  Coffee: 18oz.;  Water: 42+ oz.;

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Friday, December 19, 2025

#3506: Friday, December 19, 2025

Post 3506
- 14 years and 354 days since I started this blog -
Food and Diet
Today's Weight:                     194.0 lbs.
Previous Weight (12/18/25):         196.1 lbs.
Net Loss/Gain:                     -  2.1 lbs.
Diet Comment
Wow! Yesterday was another jet-lagged day, as I try and recover from crossing twelve time zones in one 36-hour marathon. I ended up back home with my biological clock twelve hours out of synch. Getting a little better today.
Food Log
Breakfast
1:25pm:
LEO (lox (smoked salmon), eggs, and onions) with chili crisps. Sweet potatoes on the side. Not shown: a slice of Ezekiel 4:9 sprouted grains toast with cream cheese.
Lunch
Skipped.
Dinner
10:25pm: Salmon salad (salmon, onions, celery, mayonnaise) on toasted Ezekiel 4:9 sprouted grain bread. Mixed nuts.
Liquid Intake
Espressos: 1;  Coffee: 20oz.;  Water: 24+ oz.;

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Thursday, December 18, 2025

#3505: Thursday, December 18, 2025

Post 3505
- 14 years and 353 days since I started this blog -
Food and Diet
Today's Weight:                     196.1 lbs.
Previous Weight (11/7/25):          195.3 lbs.
Net Loss/Gain:                     +  0.8 lbs.
Diet Comment
And, we're back! After meeting my first grandchild, Leo, in Los Angeles, then spending 30 days in Chiang Mai, Thailand, I got back Tuesday afternoon, and slept for about 18 of the next 24 hours.

I cannot believe I didn't gain more weight while I was away. It was mentioned by some of the friends that the way I was eating looked like I was trying to gain weight. I was not, I was just enjoying all the food that I could only get in one of the great food places in the world.

Every time in the past when I have gone to Chiang Mai (or anywhere on my winter travel route), I have come back lighter. That I didn't this year may be due to not staying long enough. I believe that my usual 2- or 3-week longer stay would have brought me back lighter.
Food Log
Breakfast
2:35pm: Italian-style chicken sausage and veggie omelet (spinach, cabbage, mushrooms, onions and peppers and gouda cheese) and sweet potatoes.
Lunch
Skipped.
Dinner
Skipped.
Liquid Intake
Espressos: 1;  Coffee: 0 oz.;  Water: 16+ oz.;

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Monday, December 15, 2025

#3506: Monday, December 15, 2025: Leaving Chiang Mai

Post 3506
- 14 years and 349 days since I started this blog -
This is my friend Mac Tavish, from Edinburgh. 
Travel Journal
(written December 15, 2025)
Read this once, it won't change for the rest of the trip(s): 
I'll be linking this post to Facebook. If that's how you got here, here's some background: Almost 15 years ago I started this blog as a food journal. I had a Type-2 Diabetes diagnosis, and needed to lose weight. Initially, that's all I did here: Journal my food intake and my weight. It contributed to a loss of 20+% of my body weight in 6 months, and continuing has kept me on track since. I started adding commentary after a while, but recently it has been a food journal only. Except when I travel (every Winter).
While I'm traveling, I let go of the weight-tracking and food journaling (except for food photos when I've eaten something interesting or pretty). I write about my experiences, and use it as a photo dump. And that's where we find ourselves now.

- - - - - - - 

My time here in Chiang Mai is over, much too quickly. 

One big dinner, and I'm off to the airport.

It has been a wonderful trip, despite it being the shortest ever. I reconnected with friends, made some new friends, played some bass and sang a little, I heard some real good music, smoked good weed and had amazing food every meal, every single day. No duds.

And the weather was, after an initial day of light rain, perfect. From day two on, every day has been clear and t-shirt warm. 

And now, too quickly it's over.

That being said...

On to the photos:

People Pics
This is breakfast at my favorite breakfast place: Kati Breakfast and Brunch. I'm having my regular, which I featured last year, when I discovered this place: overnight oats and fruit, scrambled eggs, and bacon. That's my friend Hunter, and Mac Tavish, the stuffed bear. They're from Scotland. He does magic.
My friend Rychy knows Mac, too. This is after breakfast, at Nice Kitchen, previous favorite, now third-favorite breakfast place (after Kati and Hummus).
One of the best new finds of this trip was the newly-opened Soi Dog Blues Bar. (Soi means 'alley'). I got to play here more than anywhere else this trip. Here, I'm replacing the bass player with the house band. They were quite good. And tolerant.
The bass player of the Moat Dogs (theme, much?) is a friend. Here, he let me sit in with the band for a few numbers, and play his beautiful bass, which is the first multi-scale (fanned-fret) bass I ever played, and it was a good experience. Hence, the smile.
In the Fred MacMurray Room of the famed Butter Is Better Diner/Deli, my favorite bit of New York not in New York. That's Hunter, moi, Oliver, Rychy and David. And Mac. Where there's Hunter, there's always Mac. I do love this place. Lots of laughs and good conversation over the years.
The Troubadour Band. That's Jason on guitar, Sebastien on guitar and vocals, Yves on bass and Jim on the skins. It's fun for me to see my musical friends put together something this good.

Wandering
Another post from Chiang Mai, another bumch of Wot photos. I can't/won't stop.
Tha Phae Road, all lit up, as always, but this year honoring the late Queen Mother.
The Tha Phae Gate has become a popup food court of impressive dimensions. The Thai celebrate everything: Christian holidays, Buddhist holidays, national holidays, and Chianes New Year. Fun people. 
This is a magnificent tree, standing right beside the mote, just north of the Tha Phae Gate
Food
Only one food pic, but it was important to include it. This is the Baked Egg from Kati Breakfast and Brunch. Kati has become my new favorite breakfast place, and I ate there more than any place else this trip. Everything I've ever had at Kati has been excellent. They also deliver the most perfect scrambled eggs I've ever bought, and they do it consistently. They are one of the few places in Chiang Mai that understand crispy bacon. And the presentation is absolutely beautiful.

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