Post 2221
- 8 years and 39 days since I started this blog -
At ONE Nimman Place (outside the food court) |
(written 2/8-9/19)
Read this once (it won't change for the rest of the trip(s): I'll be linking this post to Facebook. If that's how you got here, here's some background: About 8 years ago I started this blog as a food journal. I had a medical situation and needed to lose weight. Initially, that's all I did here: Journal my food intake and my weight. It contributed to helping me lose 20+% of my body weight in 6 months, and continuing has kept me on track since then. I started adding commentary after a while, but lately it has become infrequent.
While I'm traveling, I let go of the weight-tracking and food journaling, except for the occasional food shot when I've eaten something interesting. And that's where we find ourselves now.
I am sitting down to write with no idea what to write about. Today, it's about nothing - or, rather, odds and ends, without a theme.
I've got more than three weeks of Chiang Mai living behind me, and ten days left here.
I've settled into a routine that isn't appreciably different than what I do at home, with the exception of meals and (the lack of) cooking.
I went through all of yesterday, and didn't take a single photograph.
As I write this, I'm having my first real under-the-weather day, thanks to last night's dinner.
I was thinking of going to Pai today, but called it off yesterday. Good thing. It is a nauseating four hour ride, famous for the seven hundred twenty-six curves along the way. I was advised to get dramamine for the trip. I never would have made it without getting sick, the way I'm feeling now.
Thing is, that kind of trip is really not what my travel is about. I am a tourist in Chiang Mai, for sure, in that I'm here for a short time, staying in temporary accommodations, largely unfamiliar with the geography, language and culture, and with a fixed date of departure. But I'm not doing tourist things: Not 'seeing the sites' (in the six-plus weeks I've been in Chiang Mai, I haven't been to the top four attractions here); Not buying souvenirs (no room in my one bag this trip), avoiding most tourist-dominant places. Last year, I did do the elephant thing - a bucket list item for me since I was a toddler. This year, nada.
But I digress - we were talking about my having my first bad day here. I have to accept responsibility for my current malaise. Last night I had a dinner-time rehearsal with some guys I'll be playing with on Sunday. I thought it would be an hour, it turned out to be two, which made me late for the open mic at Siam Tulip. I'd been contemplating eating dinner beforehand, now there was no time.
And I was starving. So I ordered a burger at the open mic, on a friend's recommendation, and started in playing. Of course, the burger came out while I was still playing, and at the first opportunity for a break I wolfed it down. Oh, yes, by burger (which is how it's listed on the menu), I mean a double bacon-cheeseburger with fries.
I knew right away that I'd eaten it too fast. It did not feel good, although I certainly wasn't hungry any more.
Even though today I'm not feeling all that well, I think a little walk will help. Turns out, I'm wrong about that. In fact, it makes me hungry, and then eating something I hope will have nothing worse than a neutral effect on my overall well-being (or lack thereof), I do feel worse after eating.
The walk is also hot and uncomfortable, although that may have more to do with how I feel than the weather, which isn't that different than any other day here. Not without rewards, though, as, lost in thought, I encounter an item of interest, so startlingly, in-my-face and out-of context: A life-size Spider-man, in a Santa hat, poised to leap out of a massage parlor.
At this juncture, I want to say something about my little walks, my rambles. You are going to have to take my word on this, as I start out, I am singing. In my head, not out loud (I think/hope), but singing. My walks are like a meditation, and happen very much in the present. I stop singing at some point, because a real sense of internal quiet takes over. I don't expect anything, I rarely have any goal except to get breakfast at some point (these are nearly always first-of-the-day events). Sometimes that gives my rambling a destination, but rarely dictates a path (until I get hungry, then out comes the iPhone and Google maps).
These are joyous things in my life. I notice all sorts of things (like how many flowers are on my route, children playing, the architectural art so common here). I find many things I see more amusing than noteworthy, but that should give you a general idea of my mood.
Not today, of course. Today, after eating, I truncate my walk and Grab a car back to my room, to lie down in the cool and dark. I have exciting plans for the evening, and maybe I'll write more.
Which is this part.
There is an area in Chiang Mai, outside the walls, that I haven't explored at all. It is the Nimman area, it is the most modern section of Chiang Mai (even while not demolishing any of the beautiful old spots, of which there are many, but not of the density of the old city). At its entrance, it boasts the largest mall in Chiang Mai, the Maya Lifestyle Mall. The name says a lot. In my initial exploration, a few days ago, I got up close, but quite deliberately chose not to enter. I didn't feel the urge to shop, and couldn't think of anything I needed.
The Nimman area is home to a majority of the middle-class expats from Great Britain and Australia, as well as other Europeans and Asians. Since it has a lot of European-style residences, it is a very likely place for me to live, should I end up here on a more permanent basis.
The shops are newer, many are more modern, and, of course, the prices are a little higher. No big deal. The Chiang Mai middle class is well-represented, and many shops are obviously catering to that democracy, even as a majority seem to embrace the more International and less local vibe.
The interesting architecture (and pleasant aromas) lead me into the ONE Nimman Place food court. Passing a coffee shop with a romantically dark interior (and smoked windows), I am struck again with an image, and take this selfie of my reflection, now one of my favorite photos:.
Turning toward the center of the food court, it looks like this (mind you, it's about 1:30pm):
Also seen, at the restaurant I ate at at Nimmon (nothing really memorable) was this family dining out: The parents play cards, while the little girl shakes a Magic 8-ball. Just made me smile. I haver lost all sense of normality, I think.
It's another ramble begun with a song in my head (and heart).
Apropos of nothing, it was my son Alex's birthday last Wednesday. On a FaceTime video call, amidst all the birthday love and good wishes, he suggested I was in bad need of a haircut.
Just like my father when I was fourteen, although with less invective and threat.
He may have a point. But, long hair seems like a better externalization of the inner me. I don't know, what do you all think? (just kidding - in matters like this, I tend to not care what other people think).
I know for certain my beard is not a hit with the Thais - they don't seem to be much into thick facial hair.
But: They remember and recognize me from a year ago, so, in its way, it's working for me.
Next day writing:
Last night's dinner at La Terasse was crazy good.
I am there with David (who suggested this special night out), his girlfriend and her girlfriend, both of whom have very limited English - although far better than my zero Thai skills. I order food like it is my last meal, even though most of my dishes could have been standalone meals by themselves. And, I didn't take any pictures of the food. I have no explanation or excuse for this. The food was as attractive as it was delicious. You'll just have to take my word for it.
I order a chorizo tapas appetizer and a paté sampler, then escargots bourgignon. Then, a pear-and-roquefort salad and onion soup gratinée. For my main, which thankfully doesn't arrive immediately after I finish everything else (at which point, I'm seriously thinking I will not be able to eat a bite of it), I have duck breast with foix gras dressing. Also, a bottle of the house wine, from Languedoc, which is excellent. I cannot finish the duck breast, even though it is the best I've ever had. Thank goodness, my companions help a bit, and also help me get what I can't eat wrapped to go.
The to-go bag, containing duck breast foi gras. |
Which isn't a problem because that also says something about how I've been staying under-budget for the last three-plus weeks.
I get back to my place feeling fat and happy.
And very grateful that even when a day here starts out bad, things end up very positively.I couldn't be more grateful.
Food Comment
My favorite dessert right now: Goodsouls Kitchen's raw brownie, in this pic serving as Alex's birthday cake. |
Reform Kafé redux: Same mushroom burger, fantastic fries, and this time with a vegetable-fruit drink, like a V-8, but heavier on beetroot than tomatoes. |
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