#2220: Monday, February 4: Routine and random thoughts

Post 2220

- 8 years and 35 days since I started this blog -

  

Journal
(written 2/xx/19)

Read this once (it won't change for the rest of the trip(s): I'll be linking this post to Facebook. If that's how you got here, here's some background: About 8 years ago I started this blog as a food journal. I had a medical situation and needed to lose weight. Initially, that's all I did here: Journal my food intake and my weight. It contributed to helping me lose 20+% of my body weight in 6 months, and continuing has kept me on track since then. I started adding commentary after a while, but lately it has become infrequent. 

While I'm traveling, I let go of the weight-tracking and food journaling, except for the occasional food shot when I've eaten something interesting. And that's where we find ourselves now.

I have definitely settled in. On any given day, I am doing pretty much the same thing, depending on whether I get to play or not. The difference, day-to-day, is what thing did I do that was a highlight. They tend to fall into three categories: Music, People, Food (in no order).

On the really good days, its hard to choose. Luckily, I don't feel the need to.

Spending a lot of time alone gives me some time to reflect. I don't use it all for that, to be sure, but I have had some thoughts.

Chiang Mai is the only place on my five-place Retire-and-Expatriate list that has been there since I started keeping one, about twenty-five years ago. The only other place on the list I visited, Lisbon, washed out. Chiang Mai is still in contention, I have to think about replacing Lisbon, but that will wait.

If all the information you have about Chiang Mai is what I write and post and the photos I take, you have little idea what Chiang Mai is really like. I am not making a documentary here. Everything I post should be regarded as impressionistic. It's how I feel, and since I feel good, I write about that - ignoring most of the negatives, because they don't tip the scales; they don't really register in my Kodachrome world.

The things I don't write about are the decrepit, decaying buildings alongside the beautiful ones, a block-by-block common thing. I don't write about some of the odors that are part of a walk down the narrow streets and alleyways.

I also don't write about the language barrier that separates Thai and non-Thai, and creates, not through exclusivity, but rather simple practicality, expat bars and hangouts, and a limited ability to befriend Thais, who, from all evidence I have ever seen, are lovely people, who one would like as friends.

The limited access to Thai people bothers me more than anything else about Chiang Mai, but it doesn't disqualify it. While friendly and welcoming residents of the cities on my list is a check box (not moving to any place hostile or xenophobic to me, for any reason), participation is not a must. Among mostly expats, I do meet Thai people, and there is some interaction all day long.

Moving along, I have begun to repeat myself. No, not in the rambling, short-term memory loss kind of way (well, nut much, anyway), but in my daily routine. I'm keeping the same brunch-dinner (with an occasional afternoon snack) schedule. I'm going back to the same restaurants. The rambles I take are more familiar, and often less than random.

Not that lack of randomness has meant lack of surprise. It has not. Not here, not yet.

For instance, I find out new things about people I am already acquainted with, and this has led me to a new perspective on some of my friends, in the most positive way. I've had to reorder my list of most-interesting people. Well, not really. I don't keep a list. Just collect amazingly interesting people in my life.

Or, in my ramblings, I have noticed something that really makes me happy when it presents itself, and this trip, I seem to be running into it a lot: Really happy babies and toddlers. The kind obviously happy, big grins and high-pitched belly laughs.

Having nobody that young in my family, I have been exposed to that almost every day I am here: In the street, in restaurants, Thai, expat, tourist. Delighted little humans exuding joy. How could I not appreciate that?

I've gotten to play a few times, and of course, that's always a highlight. Most recently, I got to sit in on rhythm guitar, with two other guitarists, two mandolin players, and a harp player. That was so much fun, I did something I haven't done in a long time (mostly due to the awfulness of the guitar I was playing on): I played until my fingers hurt. And then some.

The occasion was the annual back-to-real-life departure of Roy, one of the half-year, non-retired expats, who was one of the mandolin players. He was going back to Scotland (I think). Could be Australia or Britain. I'm terrible with accents, and he didn't say. Roy is an excellent player, as was everybody else except me: I have only rudimentary guitar skills albeit a good sense of rhythm.

What else? After a really good dinner with Harry I accompanied him to the Night Market, where he had some business to do. It's always fun. I (almost) never buy anything, except the occasional snack. but this windowless window shopping is always fun. And always provides some good photos.

Harry, leading me to a mango and sticky rice dessert at the Night Market.

On more than half my walks, I pass Wat Pa Prao Nai. I've gotten into the habit of stopping and lingering a few minutes there before getting on my way. Thankfully, as beautiful as it is, it is a minor Wat, and usually the only other people there are the monks who live there. I feel the place is especially peaceful, and I find this pause, even though sometimes it's just for a few minutes, very refreshing.

The rest of the time, every day, is eating. I have found some fantastic restaura nts. Interestingly, because this is a departure from my regular ways, and I haven't generally made any adaptations to being here, a few of them are vegan, as in, no animal products. I only recently, on my trip to Los Angeles last October, began enjoying vegan restaurants. But I have a few I'e gone to over and over here.

And I'm still finding new ones. And new favorite things to eat here, including places who do wonderful versions of American breakfasts. Hey, I eat Thai food in the States, why not American food in Thailand. And the quality has been, for the most part, anyway, quite excellent. I've found a place that makes a great baguette. And a place that will make crisp bacon for the asking (actually, the first such place I've found).

I am, though, eating at some pricier restaurants on a regular basis, when compared to last year's trip here. One of the reasons that, while it costs a pittance to be here, I am spending about thirty-to-forty percent more this year than last. More expensive things: Transportation, food and massages. Which is pretty much how I spend almost all my money.

I'm writing this at Goodsouls Kitchen. I just finished a raw food brownie, the second and not the last one I've ordered here, and one of those new favorite foods I was talking about. Along with great coffee, this will set me back just over five bucks, and now, I can sit here for hours, among the friendly staff, some of whom recognized me from places I went last year, and treat me like an old friend. Which I am.

Earlier, on my morning ramble, I went to a new place, Recover Kafé, a vegan restaurant where you eat in a garden patio. It was, in all respects glorious. And the food was quite extraordinary, as well. I could have stayed there all day, but I hadn't brought my computer on my ramble.

Looking straight up from my table at Random Kafé.

It's Monday, Boy Blues Bar night. I eat dinner at a nearby Indian restaurant - once again, I order more than I can eat, and every bite is wonderful. My friend David is playing in a market across the street from the Kalare Night Bazaar, where Boy's is located, and I stop in to hear his band first.

It's a very good band, and the sound is excellent. And reasonably loud - a first for me in Thailand. The playing is first-rate, and the singing - usually the weak point in Thai bands playing American/British music - is good as well. I listen to a long blues song that is apparently an original, contains a lot of opportunities for the two guitarists to solo, and I'm impressed.

A few minutes later I'm up the stairs at Boy's. Ollie's there, as are a few other now-familiar faces. The mood seems good. The regular bass player walks up and says he'll play first, then turn it over to me, if that's okay. I'm somewhat taken aback by this. If it's okay? I tell him, "Thanks, man - whatever you want. It's your gig."

With Boy, guitar-slinging proprietor of Boy Blues Bar, number one live music club in Chiang Mai.

I get some good playing time. I'm happy, I get an opportunity to stretch on a few songs, very rare in my typically supporting role at open mics. People are dancing. Smiles all around.

In the end, it's another good night. Highlights of this day include food and playing. I'm so grateful for every day.

Food Comment

I have included more than the usual food picd, and I have shown restraint, even so. These meals really have been highlights. Look on:

Tikky Café never disappoints: Minced pork and vegetables with rice.

This fried eggs over stir-fried potatoes and vegetables comes from Overstand Café.

Goodsouls Kitchen has my favorite americano and my new favorite dessert: a brownie made with only raw foods.

From Grazie Thai Cooking, stir-fried mixed vegetables and penang curry with chicken and rice.

From the Hideout, not only is this scrambled egg with lettuce, tomato and avocado killer, I think this baked in-house baguette may be the best in Chiang Mai.

At Recover Kafé, I over-ordered a mushroom burger and glass noodles salad. Everything was excellent, but the star here is actually the amazing, surprising potatoes, which are the best french fries I've ever had.

Samosas from Rajdarbar Indian Restaurant - as good or better than any I've ever had - that's the second time that's happened today!

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