#2979, Thursday, January 19, 2023: Oaxaca so far: Focus on food and wandering

Post 2979

- 13 years and 19 days since I started this blog -

January 15, 2023, El Centro, Oaxaca City, Mexico. Photo by Darren Otis

Journal

(written January 19, 2023)

Read this once (it won't change for the rest of the trip(s): I'll be linking this post to Facebook. If that's how you got here, here's some background: About 12 years ago I started this blog as a food journal. I had a medical situation and needed to lose weight. Initially, that's all I did here: Journal my food intake and my weight. It contributed to helping me lose 20+% of my body weight in 6 months, and continuing has kept me on track since then. I started adding commentary after a while, but lately it has become infrequent. 

While I'm traveling, I let go of the weight-tracking and food journaling, except for food shots when I've eaten something interesting or pretty. And that's where we find ourselves now.

It doesn't seem like ten days since my last post. But it's been weird times here in Oaxaca.

In the two weeks I've been here, I've only had four or five days when I wasn't experiencing some kind of malady or another. The lower back pain I experienced in that time only subsided in the last couple of days, and there have been a few days of gastric distress (mild, but inhibiting).

So I haven't been getting around as much as I usually do, especially in a brand new place.

Still, I've been out every day, although all my activity has been before and after meal times. Food brings focus, and I'll walk around before a meal, and walk it off after. Occasionally, there are other destinations: ATMs, smoke shop, grocers, but, by and large, my day is organized around meals. 

Even after Darren got here.

The arrival of Syracuse best buddy and fellow-traveler Darren Otis was a great treat. I wish I'd have been in better shape to greet and hang with him, but we've connected daily and enjoyed company, and that continues. Sadly, he's had similar problems to mine: backache and belly woes. I think we're both pretty well now, thank goodness.

Now, Darren's a real photographer, who uses a real camera and takes real good pictures, even when he isn't traveling. I, on the other hand, consider myself a snapshot photographer. I think I have a good eye, but I'm really not photo-documenting anything. I'm not a photorealist, I post-process every shot I keep, and I don't keep everything. Anyway, here are some pics Darren took of me (plus the headline photo up top), some with my phone, as we explored Oaxaca.

Photos by Darren Otis.

I have heard a few musical performances, but the day I spent with Facebook friends Melissa and Roger has been my only playing opportunity.

Oaxaca's lack of a large, visible expat population makes it unique in my most recent years' travels, and it has led me to realize that I miss it. Oaxaca is well set up for tourists, as are all the other places I go, but basically has only one expat hang-out, which, thanks to a still-imposed mask rule, I haven't really checked out (I lost my mask at the Oaxaca airport).

As much as any place I've been, I recommend a visit to Oaxaca, and I'm really delighted to be here, but it's lack of an expat infrastructure, meaning people who've chosen a place outside of their native country (which requires a certain common mindset, no matter which country), and places that cater to their wants and needs, has taken it off my list of potential places to live. 

That's not in any way a criticism of this place, just as, when I reached a similar conclusion about Lisbon, Portugal, it was not because I didn't love the place. Like Lisbon, Oaxaca is fabulous, and, when I'm out in it, I really enjoy myself.

This is a new insight for me. I hadn't realized how dependent I have been on established expats to give me an appreciation of a place. That  might be because I have not been completely dependent on them. I have made friends with locals everywhere, and not always through expat introductions, although, yes, the majority have been.

It turns out,, need that expat scene. Live and learn. 

Oaxaca is stunning and unique, and I have every confidence that I will enjoy the rest of my time here, especially feeling better, as I have been.

Here are the rest of this blog's pics, with commentary as appropriate:

Walking-around photos. Oaxaca is the most colorful city I have ever been in. They're big on murals, as opposed to (but not exclusive of) graffiti. This is a bit of defiance of the architectural standards of World Heritage sites, but when Oaxaca became part of that club, graffiti wasn't a real problem. Another thing that many UNESCO World Heritage Sites are big on is churches and cathedrals (I'm looking at you, Cuenca, Ecuador). I happen to be staying very near to three of the biggest. But when you walk the streets here, there's a visual surprise some eye-seaaring colorful wonder around every corner. I could take hundreds of these pictures. And I might. 

A row of food stands, where I got my first horchata, a refreshing drink favored locally. One of the delights of Oaxaca is that, regardless of the setting, be it food truck, stall, tiny restaurant or upscale eatery, the food is amazing. The quality of some of the meals I've eaten here is second to none, regardless of the cost or whether I was eating sitting down or standing up. The world agrees, these days Oaxaca is an international foodie destination. 

Speaking of excellent food everywhere, the above two shots are of Pig & fish La Cochera, which was once a food truck. Above, half the original food truck serves as the take-out window, while at bottom, the owner is standing in the other half, keeping the original dining counter, while there are tables in the main room behind. I read in an online review that you are only a customer the first time you come. After that, you're family. I was made to feel like family, immediately.  And then I ate the best empañadas, ever. I tried a bit of one of their tacos too, and now I have to go back for more. Just amazing. And, thanks to the over-the-top warm hospitality, I don't expect to ever take out anything but leftovers. I really enjoyed myself here.

Another unique eatery is Vino & Vinyl. A bar dedicated to analog recordings and good wine. The menu is an odd mix of Spanish tapas, Italian pasta dishes and some fusion-Oaxacan fare, all were good, although I found the pasta, as served, was a little dry. The unique draw here is, you are invited to browse their collection of LPs, and a waiter will play your desired song. I seemed to be there at the perfect time, so when I found a special-pressing copy of Kind of Blue (Miles Davis), they obligingly played the whole album for me. It was wonderful. I opted for a Mula Oaxacaña mezcal cocktail, which was great, but in the future, I might just stop by for a glass of wine, some tapas, and a song.

Food Comment

Guacamole and Oaxacan chorizo and eggs on toast. From Darren's and my favorite brunch spot, Café Los Cuiles.

Smoked salmon on avocado toast and huevos revueltes with mole negro. At Café Nuevo Mundo.

At Café Los Cuiles again: Tosta de huevos, champiñones y queso (eggs, mushrooms and cheese, panini style). That's jamaica agua in the glass behind - it turns out jamaica is a local purple fruit, nothing to do with the Reggae nation at all.

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