#2787, Tuesday, February 22, '22: Countdown begins (TWTWTW, Cuenca Edition)

Reverend Ken's Travel Blog

Post 2787

- 12 years and 53 days since I started this blog -

Winter Travel Journal

In the garden at Wunderbar

(written February 21-22, 2022)

Read this once (it won't change for the rest of the trip(s): I'll be linking this post to Facebook. If that's how you got here, here's some background: About 12 years ago I started this blog as a food journal. I had a medical situation and needed to lose weight. Initially, that's all I did here: Journal my food intake and my weight. It contributed to helping me lose 20+% of my body weight in 6 months, and continuing has kept me on track since then. I started adding commentary after a while, originally 7 days a week, then 5, but lately it has become occasional. 

While I'm traveling, I let go of the weight-tracking and food journaling, except for the occasional food shot when I've eaten something interesting. And that's where we find ourselves now.

It's Two Day! (Tuesday, 2/22/22). This has no real meaning to me, just something I noticed when I started to write today. I've also just realized I have less than two weeks left of my time in Cuenca.

Sorry for the digression. We will start over. 

In most ways, Cuenca is the same as it was on my first visit two years ago. The same amazing people, the same always-pleasant weather, the same beautiful Spanish Colonial architecture, cobblestone streets, walkability.

But...

Everybody (well, nearly everybody) wears a mask in public. Some of my favorite (including my very favorite) places are out of business: my favorite restaurant, my favorite place to play, Casa Velez, where I bought my Panama hat (all genuine Panama hats are from Ecuador).

I have found a couple of places to play - but their open mics are on the same day, Wednesday. This is the first that in my travels abroad that I've only been able to play once a week. 

So, in post-Covid Cuenca, there isn't as much to do. Same is true, I think, of post-Covid everywhere.

Cuenca is still the most pleasant place I've ever visited. Every time I go for a walk (every day), I'm reminded of the positive differences between Cuenca and Syracuse. The scale, in terms of livability, is heavily in Cuenca's favor.

But then, there's my established scene in Syracuse. People who love me and care for me. The music scene - especially the music. It's that that keeps me a Syracuse resident who snowbirds to warmer climes three or four months a year. 

I almost had a bad night here last Friday. 

It started out with aborted dinner plans, when the chosen restaurant was closed when my friend Anthony went there. Not feeling too well, Anthony bailed. I headed out to a new place where a band that had been recommended to me was playing.

When I got there, the place turned out to be very nice, but my plans to have dinner nearby were ruined by there not being any restaurants nearby. Upon inquiring, the place had a kitchen, so I paid the cover, and went in and looked around.

Club 184 was very big. Big dance floor, big stage, big house sound system, tables inside and on three patios, and the dance floor full of Boomers (i say that, and I can because that's my cohort, too) dancing to the band's oldies. 

That was the first indication I wasn't going to be too happy there. I don't dislike those songs, but I never listen to them, either. At least, not rock'n'roll oldies. I'll listen to '60s-'70s Soul music, jazz, R&B,  but I never tune in the rock oldies stations. And, unless I have friends in the band, I don't go out to see and hear oldies cover bands.

And never go to hear tribute bands.

Anyway, although the sound system seemed to be quite capable, the mix wasn't good, either - a six-piece band but the only thing coming through the system with any clarity were vocals and drums. Everything else was background mush. 

Still the audience loved it and was having a great time. Me, not so much. 

Still, there I was, so I found someone - who turned out to be the club's owner - to ask for a menu, found a place on one of the patios, and had the blandest, least satisfying spaghetti carbonara I've ever eaten. 

Then I saw my friend George, the host of my favorite open mic from my first visit, now lost to the pandemic, and the host of the open mic at Bistro Yaku, where I've gotten to play a bunch this visit - I've posted pics and video.

George was glad to see me, but had the disturbing news that the host band, his band, had blown up at a gig after the last time I saw him, and he wouldn't be going back to Bistro Yaku.

Bummer. My new friend Bela, the guitar and harp player I'd met my first time at Bistro Yaku had asked me to let him know how things were at Club 184. I texted him a negative report, and told him the news re: George.

That news cast a shadow of doubt on what is coming up for me there this Wednesday, when I am - or was - looking forward to a similarly good time as I've had at Bistro Yaku the last three times I played there. I guess we'll see. I'm kind of glad there's an alternative, the weekly open mic at Wunderbar.

But now I was really depressed. I let go of that as best and as quickly as I could, but decided to end my night and go back to Balcón. I had had tentative plans to see a jazz band at Wunderbar with Bela and Anthony, which was a late show. Anthony was already gone for the night, and Bela hadn't committed, so I packed it in.

Luckily for me, Bela hadn't. He texted me that he was on his way to meet me at Club 184. I immediately re-routed him to Wunderbar, to hear the jazz trio.

Bela saved the night for me. The jazz group was wonderful, playing riffy jazz-funk. I was immediately comfortable. And, it was a beautiful night. After ordering our drinks and appreciating the music, we went out to the garden table, where the music was more in the background, to talk and smoke some pot.

We spent the rest of the night in conversation, and when we paused, the band was done, and it was after midnight (there's a song in there). All the negativity from earlier in the evening was gone, my walk home was happy. I felt buoyant.

On my walk home, I passed this lovely display.

Yesterday (Monday), I had the pleasant surprise of an unannounced visit from Felipe. He's been MIA taking care of a health issue and a good deal of bureaucracy concerning his parents' estate. I was very, very happy to see him.

Anthony, who I'd introduced to Felipe two years ago, when I'd first befriended both of them, had wanted to be included, so when Felipe and I were settled at a café in the courtyard next to the New Cathedral, with its spectacular view of the domes, Anthony joined us.

Good times, good conversation, and some 'memorial' photos:

Courtyard of the New Cathedral (Catedral de la Inmaculada Concepción).

Felipe and I in the courtyard next to the New Cathedral.

Anthony and Felipe on the courtyard balcony with the great view of the New Cathedral's Domes.

Felipe with me, on the courtyard balcony.

Before we went our separate ways, Felipe pointed out a restaurant that served octopus, something Anthony and I had been trying to find. 

A great day, even before sunset.

 I couldn't be more grateful.

Food Comment

Fruit salad with yogurt. To be honest, although very good, it isn't the sort of thing I'd usually post here, but it's a colorful dish, and it inspired me to write the following paired haiku poems:
Café Nucallacta 1

When my food is brought

I close all my devices 

To enjoy my meal

Café Nucallacta 2

As I prepare to

Taste my food I stop and grab

My phone for a pic

Salmon eggs benedict - amazing food, amazing service at Kolo Restaurante.

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