#2782, Monday, January 31, '22: Recap plus birthday

Reverend Ken's Travel Blog

Post 2782

- 12 years and 31 days since I started this blog -

Winter Travel Journal

(written Jan 31, 2022)

Read this once (it won't change for the rest of the trip(s): I'll be linking this post to Facebook. If that's how you got here, here's some background: About 12 years ago I started this blog as a food journal. I had a medical situation and needed to lose weight. Initially, that's all I did here: Journal my food intake and my weight. It contributed to helping me lose 20+% of my body weight in 6 months, and continuing has kept me on track since then. I started adding commentary after a while, originally 7 days a week, then 5, but lately it has become occasional. 

While I'm traveling, I let go of the weight-tracking and food journaling, except for the occasional food shot when I've eaten something interesting. And that's where we find ourselves now.

So much has happened since I wrote. To begin at the end, I am writing this in my new residence, at the Hotel Balcón del Artes, where I stayed when I was in Cuenca two years ago. The apartment I rented was lacking in some amenities, and when I was in quarantine, these admittedly little things added up to me not wanting to stay there. So I went with something I knew was good, and familiar.

But I really need to begin at the beginning - or at least where I left off last post, with me finally getting to play bass at an open mic, new to me, at Bistro Yaku.

The restaurant was set up very nicely for an open mic, with a nice stage perfectly proportioned for the room. It was raining lightly when I walked in, through the lobby of the Hostal Yakumamma, then through the open-air courtyard. 

Once in the restaurant, I was immediately greeted by George, who used to host my favorite Cuenca open mic at the now-closed Kamaq Restaurante. He greeted me by name, told me I would have a bass amp to play through, and offered to let me use his probably-the-only-one-in-Ecuador Warwick Double-Buck Streamer. Which I did, but only for a song, before going back to my perfectly set-up for me Steinberger XL2TT. Also, without a doubt, the only one in Ecuador. Or, maybe, South America.

But I digress. I enjoyed an opening house band set and a half-dozen or so singer-guitarists before I was called up. I had some old friends a new friend - a young guitarist - to back me up. I started with a bass-and-vocal solo, doing my take on the Animals' We Gotta Get Out of This Place. Then I brought up the other players, and taught them, on stage, an easy-to-teach song, Chris Isaak's Wicked Games. Bill Withers' Who Is He?, my signature jam song (because I can teach it to anyone in 30 seconds), finished my set.

The reception was very gratifying. It turns out, a few non-musician audience members remembered me from a couple of years ago, and the other musicians, and George, gave me enough compliments to make me blush.

That's George, checking the sound while I perform Wicked Games.

Here I am, finishing up Who Is He?, with some help from Mike on harp.

The rest of the night was great, including a set by a Cuencano indigenous folk group that really blew me away, with their exotic instrumentation and solid groove. I got to play again, for a couple of different songs, and then it was my turn to back up young Paul, for some blues instrumentals, and finally, I took the mic again for the solo-heavy version of the Rolling Stones' country blues tune, No Expectations.

That was my night, or it would have been, if only I hadn't left my phone on the table when I went back to the studio. On my way out, I got to express my appreciation to the Cuencanos who had delivered such a fine set earlier. They told me they'd really enjoyed my stuff, too. I got all excited, and walked out the door. I was immediately followed by the waiter, who apologized for not bringing the check when I'd asked, but reminding me that I still had to pay. Which I did, happily, but kind of pissed with myself for my senior moment.

I walked the seven blocks back to the studio, emptied my pockets and realized I didn't have my phone. Ten minutes' walking time later, I was back at the bistro, and, literally everybody in the restaurant, customers and staff alike, yelled, "You forgot your phone!" as my waiter handed it to me. All I could do was shrug and thank them.

Thursday. my friend Felipe collected me and brought me to a café he liked and whose management he was friendly with. The coffee was great and the food was excellent.

Friday, after a late breakfast (all my breakfasts are late breakfasts. Most people would call my first meal of the day lunch) I visited the Balcón, to try and make a deal and change my dates, slightly. I had made a mistake in my AirBnB booking. In fact, the big mistaked was not calling the owner, Nestor, directly. I would definitely have gotten a better deal, and some latitude for changing. Going through AirBnB tied his hands. Any action he would have taken would have cost him money and possibly his Superhost status. 

I did, however, get to choose my room, and my new room is much nicer than my room two years ago, so there's that.

Walking back, who do I encounter but the Cuencano group (well, three out of four) playing on the street! They didn't even have a tip jar out, they were just playing for the fun of it. We recognized each other at the same time, and they immediately asked me to join them. We did an Andean version of a pop tune I recognized the changes to, but not the melody, which was okay, because I was on cajón (box drum) and all I had to do was not screw up the groove. 

Then, they surprised me, in the best possible way, by starting up an amazing version of Wicked Games, which they had heard me do Wednesday. With my added vocals, we drew a little crowd. I was ecstatic. I live for this kind of musical adventure. I have no photo or video record of this event, but I was grinning for hours after. A peak memory.

The next day, Saturday, was my seventy-second birthday. I got up at 6am to pee, and, as I was going back to bed, my phone lit up. The day's first happy birthday message. I replied thanks. My friend responded immediately with "You're up?" to which I replied, "It happens!". 

It all ended up with me doing an interview for Chuck Shiele's music column in an upcoming Table Hopping. Look for it.

Excited and unable to get back to sleep, I did my morning ablutions, and headed out very early for birthday breakfast at San Seba Café. I wanted my LEO (lox, eggs and onions, what SSC calls a smoked salmon scramble - exact same thing - and, yes, the same thing I had last time, and every time two tears ago). 

I had to get my birthday breakfast in early, before a 'date' with Felipe, who was going to show up at noon. I did get a nice new shot of the domes.

Fat and happy after breakfast, I met Felipe at the hotel café he'd taken me last time. I had a fruit, yogurt and ice cream parfait for 'breakfast dessert', and a frozen cappuccino, which you can see at the very top of this post. Also, some great conversation. Felipe is just an amazing human.

Then I needed a nap.

From my last visit, I thought Orly and Julia at Capitán were expecting me, but I also had gotten an RSVP from my friend and fellow snowbird Tony, who I had met and hit it off with my first time in Cuenca, so I messaged them, and told them the start time.

After waiting an hour-and-a-half for a pot delivery, during which I enjoyed some bought-for-me tequila shots and a beer), I made it just in time. I was expected, and from my previous visit (and the fact that we're Facebook friends), they knew it was my birthday. I should have told them not to make a fuss. I doubt they would have accommodated me on that score, though. Quite the fuss was made, and the wine glasses were never empty.

This 100% candid shot of me sitting down to a main course of salmon and berry glaze was taken secretly by my friend Tony, who sensibly declined to get in the picture.

Julia bringing the birthday cake.

The birthday cake. All the pics from Capitán are from Tony.

Of course the night ended with some singing and strumming, with Tony joining in on the vocals when he could remember the words (these were my songs, after all). Tony's a pro, and I appreciated him joining in in the spirit of the night - he usually doesn't want to sing unrehearsed. 

By the end of the night, I was a bit drunker and stoneder than any previous time in Cuenca. A cab was in order.

It's a good thing I was handling the almost-four-hundred Facebook and Messenger and Instagram and Message birthday greetings throughout the day. I didn't even go on Facebook before going to sleep.

Sunday was, therefore, a down day, just for recovery. I woke up without hunger, still full from the day before, although, thankfully, sans hangover. I caught up with all the birthday greetings, and then went to Sofy Glocal for my one meal in the late afternoon. It was really good, something I hadn't seen on the always-changing menu before. This time, Sofy was there, as usual. It turns out, she had seen me at Bistro Yaku. Also, she had an incredible music channel on - I was singing along when I wasn't stuffing my face - Otis Redding, the Band, Motown, Sam & Dave, more from that era. It was awesome. 

Stuffed again, I went for a walk. My studio is only a short walk from Sofy's. I went out of my way, wanting to walk off some calories, then, unaccountably, got dessert at the corner ice cream store, and brought it up to the studio. 

Today is moving day. I'm now installed in the beautiful Hotel Balcón del Artes, and more comfortable than I ever was in the studio. My room even has a little balcony (which my room two years ago did not). Not much of a view, but still, a place to smoke without going up to the rooftop lounge.

I feel blessed, and, as always, full of gratitude.

Food Comment

Yes, you've seen this pic before, it was my first breakfast here this trip, and I had the exact same thing, what I call a LEO and San Seba calls a smoked salmon scramble. My idea of birthday breakfast. 

Thai curry with shrimp and mushrooms, from Sofy Glocal, my post-birthday, one meal indulgence. Absolutely awesome!

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