Post 2414
- 9 years and 19 days since I started this blog -
(written Jan 8-10, 2020)
Read this once (it won't change for the rest of the trip(s): I'll be linking this post to Facebook. If that's how you got here, here's some background: About 9 years ago I started this blog as a food journal. I had a medical situation and needed to lose weight. Initially, that's all I did here: Journal my food intake and my weight. It contributed to helping me lose 20+% of my body weight in 6 months, and continuing has kept me on track since then. I started adding commentary after a while, but lately it has become infrequent.
While I'm traveling, I let go of the weight-tracking and food journaling, except for the occasional food shot when I've eaten something interesting. And that's where we find ourselves now.
In fact, better. A couple of little things that had been bothering me (a cramp in my right calf, some neuropathic foot pain I sometimes feel) stopped being troublesome. I'm just lucky - or maybe it was Goodsouls Kitchen's Golden milk (turmeric tea and ginger) that did the trick.
I thought you'd like to see where I'm staying:
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| Because it is south-facing, my apartment house is in shade most of the day, which is good, because the afternoons have been unseasonably hot. Also, none of these windows or terraces are mine, room is in the back. |
Sorry. Not sorry.
I have gotten to the point where my life in Chiang Mai is just like my life at home. Eat, sleep, play. My bringing a bass with me this trip is paying off - just like at home, I pretty much get to play as much as I want.
My friends here are taking good care of me, providing me lots of opportunities for socializing and playing. The result is I'm spending more time involved with my friends than Chiang Mai's myriad attractions.
Not that it is possible to ignore where I am. It is not. This is an amazing place, and everything, walking around, eating, playing, even showering or going to the bathroom has a unique - if only slightly - Chiang Mai way about it.
But this trip will largely be remembered for the music.
Thursday night, I had a 'gig' with my friends, 'The Dudes'. A note about the name: Guitarist-singer Oliver Benjamin is the founder of 'Dudeism' (google it). Also, it's appropriate.
Weird and wonderful gig. The whole time we're sitting around a table. The whole night happens from a corner table in the tiny CU Corner Bar.
The gig is fine. Fun. And not just for the players. We have a spill-into-the-streets crowd enjoying the whole thing.
We all love playing together. That's what it's about, right?.
Friday morning brings the Chiang Mai Expats Club breakfast. This is an every-other-week event that takes place at one of Chiang Mai's nicest restaurants. It is also the best breakfast buffet, bar none, that I've ever been to, and I go to every one that occurs whenever I'm here for it. I've never missed one since I've been coming to Chiang Mai. This is my fifth, and this trip's only opportunity.
The restaurant is right on the Ping River, just outside the walls of the old city. The first time I went, I sat at the newcomers table, and got great information that helped me solve a phone problem, but also and more importantly, gave me the information that there was an open jam at Boy Blues Bar at the Kalare Night Market not too far away. Every Monday night. I've never missed one of those, either.
That intro to Boy's, in turn, was how I first connected with the music scene in Chiang Mai.
That night, at Hopf's Café/Café de Buddha's open mic, I had one of my best nights of jamming - just an extraordinary opportunity to play and share good times with good musicians.
I had an opportunity to do an acoustic set on my own, and then the jamming started. And I played most of the next two-and-a-half hours. So many songs, so many musicians. Some jams were quite extraordinary.
I came away from that night exhilarated.
Saturday I get to see an amazing performance by Willie and Dave, this time with a really good drummer. I've played with Oo on every trip I've had here. After playing Johnny B. Good with him the first time we met, he came up to me after, and showed me the bass line he'd actually wanted me to play by tapping one finger on my forearm in eighth-notes. We laugh about that. But he was serious.
About the name, Oo: Thai men I've met seem to all have one-syllable nicknames, and multi-syllable real names. Oo is actually Chatmatee Ketsuvan. Why is he not, 'Chat'? I don't think that's any of my business.
Here are a couple of vids from the night:
My friends here are taking good care of me, providing me lots of opportunities for socializing and playing. The result is I'm spending more time involved with my friends than Chiang Mai's myriad attractions.
Not that it is possible to ignore where I am. It is not. This is an amazing place, and everything, walking around, eating, playing, even showering or going to the bathroom has a unique - if only slightly - Chiang Mai way about it.
But this trip will largely be remembered for the music.
Thursday night, I had a 'gig' with my friends, 'The Dudes'. A note about the name: Guitarist-singer Oliver Benjamin is the founder of 'Dudeism' (google it). Also, it's appropriate.
 |
| Gig? Just sit around the table in the corner of the restaurant and have fun. We're paid in beer (technically, you can't work on the typical residence visa and definitely not on a tourist visa (my hand's raised). |
The gig is fine. Fun. And not just for the players. We have a spill-into-the-streets crowd enjoying the whole thing.
We all love playing together. That's what it's about, right?.
Friday morning brings the Chiang Mai Expats Club breakfast. This is an every-other-week event that takes place at one of Chiang Mai's nicest restaurants. It is also the best breakfast buffet, bar none, that I've ever been to, and I go to every one that occurs whenever I'm here for it. I've never missed one since I've been coming to Chiang Mai. This is my fifth, and this trip's only opportunity.
The restaurant is right on the Ping River, just outside the walls of the old city. The first time I went, I sat at the newcomers table, and got great information that helped me solve a phone problem, but also and more importantly, gave me the information that there was an open jam at Boy Blues Bar at the Kalare Night Market not too far away. Every Monday night. I've never missed one of those, either.
That intro to Boy's, in turn, was how I first connected with the music scene in Chiang Mai.
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| This is my third plate at the Chiang Mai Expats Club bi-weekly Breakfast Buffet at the River Market. This is not just the best breakfast buffet I've ever known, it is a beautiful restaurant in a beautiful location. That's the Ping River in front of the food. It is a beautiful, placid spot. |
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| And this is what is behind me at the River Market. It's all just beautiful. |
I had an opportunity to do an acoustic set on my own, and then the jamming started. And I played most of the next two-and-a-half hours. So many songs, so many musicians. Some jams were quite extraordinary.
 |
| Back to the wall, head down, crankin' out the groove. I was in fine form, taking on all jammers' calls. And the Steinberger is singin'. |
Saturday I get to see an amazing performance by Willie and Dave, this time with a really good drummer. I've played with Oo on every trip I've had here. After playing Johnny B. Good with him the first time we met, he came up to me after, and showed me the bass line he'd actually wanted me to play by tapping one finger on my forearm in eighth-notes. We laugh about that. But he was serious.
About the name, Oo: Thai men I've met seem to all have one-syllable nicknames, and multi-syllable real names. Oo is actually Chatmatee Ketsuvan. Why is he not, 'Chat'? I don't think that's any of my business.
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Willie (l) and Dave (r) with Oo hidden behind at the kit. The Cha Cha Bar is a great place to play (I've played there a few times in the past) because it has a stage, a real PA and even a good sound man.
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Here are a couple of vids from the night:
When I post these videos up, several people think I am playing in it. I wish. This was a memorable night of music. Well-played, well-organized (even the unrehearsed impromptu parts) bit of ensemble playing. Willie is worth hearing on his own, but the support of a pro rhythm section was a wonderful add.
On my way home, I pass a wot that is all lit up (unusual for after midnight), and curious, I investigated/trespassed just a bit.
Sunday night there's another date with 'The Dudes'. But first, I spend some time with the gang at a small celebration for Oo's birthday. It takes place at a restaurant in the same wide alley as Zoe in Yellow, Chiang Mai's most famous party/singles bar, which is surrounded by other bars, kind of an alcoholic mall for getting down in Chiang Mai.
Some good food is served, and there's liquor available, but it's too early for drinking, and later, I'll be drinking at Freedom Bar (that's my pay), but aside from a glass of wine to toast Oo, I refrain. We walk to the parking lot and smoke a joint instead of the available Thai liquor.
The cab driver gets lost a few times on the way to Freedom Bar, and when I get there, Yves, the drummer, tells me there's a problem with the gig: Apparently, the owner's not there, and nobody told the manager there was going to be a band. He has to leave, and he's closing the bar. Meanwhile, there are already people gathering for the show. Harry shows up, then Oliver. There are negotiations. There are phone calls. I sit apart and catch up with email on my phone.
Finally, my friend Took, guitarist extraordinaire, comes in the bar, assesses the situation, and makes a call to the owner, who, it seems, is his friend and also his landlord. Upon realization that there are going to be people coming, thirsty people coming to his bar for the show he forgot he booked, the owner, Freedom, agrees to come to the bar and keep it open.
We set up quickly, and the evening starts. Lots o' fun. Lots of friends. A really good night.
That's the last few days of music. It's been an entirely great time.
I have only five more full days in Chiang Mai. I will play four nights, but Wednesday night I have a special dinner planned.
Then it's back to LA to complete my seventieth swing around the sun, and head off to Cuenca, Ecuador.
But I'll write one last post before I leave Chiang Mai to tell you about all the new stuff I have to be grateful for.
On my way home, I pass a wot that is all lit up (unusual for after midnight), and curious, I investigated/trespassed just a bit.
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| It turns out there was a midnight worship(?) ceremony going on. Or maybe a class. |
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| From the outside... |
Some good food is served, and there's liquor available, but it's too early for drinking, and later, I'll be drinking at Freedom Bar (that's my pay), but aside from a glass of wine to toast Oo, I refrain. We walk to the parking lot and smoke a joint instead of the available Thai liquor.
The cab driver gets lost a few times on the way to Freedom Bar, and when I get there, Yves, the drummer, tells me there's a problem with the gig: Apparently, the owner's not there, and nobody told the manager there was going to be a band. He has to leave, and he's closing the bar. Meanwhile, there are already people gathering for the show. Harry shows up, then Oliver. There are negotiations. There are phone calls. I sit apart and catch up with email on my phone.
Finally, my friend Took, guitarist extraordinaire, comes in the bar, assesses the situation, and makes a call to the owner, who, it seems, is his friend and also his landlord. Upon realization that there are going to be people coming, thirsty people coming to his bar for the show he forgot he booked, the owner, Freedom, agrees to come to the bar and keep it open.
We set up quickly, and the evening starts. Lots o' fun. Lots of friends. A really good night.
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| The Dudes (Harry, me, Ollie, Yves and Phil) in action at Freedom Bar. |
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| After-show jam, with my favorite Thai guitarist, Took. It was really hot, and I do mean the music. |
I have only five more full days in Chiang Mai. I will play four nights, but Wednesday night I have a special dinner planned.
Then it's back to LA to complete my seventieth swing around the sun, and head off to Cuenca, Ecuador.
But I'll write one last post before I leave Chiang Mai to tell you about all the new stuff I have to be grateful for.
Food Comment
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| Reform Kafe's wonderful coconut and mushroom soup is spectacularly complex and flavorful. |
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| Goodsouls Kitchen's healing breakfast of Golden milk (turmeric and ginger tea) and mushrooms and rice. |
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| Coffee and banana protein shake, which should not have been as delicious as it was, and a falafel salad at Goodsouls Kitchen. |
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