#3510: Sunday, January 25: First week in Cuenca

Post 3510

- 15 years and 25 days since I started this blog -

Travel Journal

(written January 25, 2026)

Read this once, it won't change for the rest of the trip(s): 

I'll be linking this post to Facebook. If that's how you got here, here's some background: Over 15 years ago I started this blog as a food journal. I had a Type-2 Diabetes diagnosis, and needed to lose weight. Initially, that's all I did here: Journal my food intake and my weight. It contributed to a loss of 20+% of my body weight in 6 months, and continuing has kept me on track since. I started adding commentary after a while, but recently it has been a food journal only. Except when I travel (every Winter).

While I'm traveling, I let go of the weight-tracking and food journaling (except for food photos when I've eaten something interesting or pretty). I write about my experiences, and use it as a photo dump. And that's where we find ourselves now.

- - - - - - - 

We have some catching up to do. 

After I left Chiang Mai, I went back to Syracuse. In Syracuse, I had only five days before I came down with pneumonia, and the rest of the time at home was all recuperation. I finally felt back to health only five days before I left to contine my winter travels.

I flew to Los Angeles and spent five days with my son's family, specifically paying attention to Number One Grandson Leo, two-and-a-half months old. I can't describe how happy I was during the visit. 

Then the rather absurd three-flight trip to Cuenca.

I landed in Cuenca at 7am. Even with Customs and baggage claim, I was at my 'residence,' Hostal Yakumama, at 7:30am. I sent some "arrived alive" messages, and by (estimate) 8am I was asleep. Got a solid eight hours, too.

The bad side of that is it took several days after that to get a good night's sleep... at night. I kept on taking naps - something I almost never do - and screwing up my normal sleep time. This is largely due to the period of acclimitization necessary when you spend ten months a year near sea-level and then do everything at 8400 feet above sea-level. It usually takes me three or four days. This trip, for whatever reason, it took me six days. Today, I was fine.

I've met up with most of my friends here. A few have moved out of Cuenca (to Europe) and a few non-residents aren't around yet.

For the second year in a row, I'm staying at my favorite place in Cuenca, the place I spent most of my time at for the last six years, thanks to the restaurant/music venue Bistro Yaku. In that time, it is the place I've played at the most, the place I've eaten more meals at (I have an off-menu Ken's Special breakfast here), and the place I have my now-traditional last send-off party at.

My room is on the courtyard in front of the Bistro. Thirty feet away from the front door. I've known the owner/manager and his family (brother/partner, wife, daughter) almost since they opened six years ago. I've watched them grow.

They know me, too. It's all very easy.

I've only gotten to play one night - others were scheduled, canceled. There will not be as many playing opportunities this trip. The Blues Enigma Band, who I play bass with when I'm in town, has only one scheduled gig in the five-and-a-half weeks I'm here. In the seven weeks I was here last year, we played six! 

One of the open mic host restaurants has closed. One new open mic has a very bad reputation and is at my least favorite place in Cuenca. The only other one I know of takes place at the same time as my favorite (and, at this point, last man standing) at Bistro Yaku.

In my experience, things will open up for me.

In my time here so far, I have been returning to those of my favorite places still around, so less wandering and fewer photos. The altitude acclimatization has also deterred some of my normally long walks. But I'm back now, so more photos in future blogs. Lots of food pics, though.

On to the photos:

People Pics

Claudia in Calle Santa Ana, a little alley between the 'New' Cathedral and the former monastery/school/nunnery, now housing restaurants (see below). This is a favorite place for portraits and wedding party pictures, as is the courtyard on the other side of the alley.

This 'living statue' started to move the minute he saw Claudia. They're old friends. Cuencanos are usually friendlier - just kidding, he thought these would make funny photos.

Duo-selfie with Claudia.

Laura and Randy joining me for breakfast at Bistro Yaku. You may remember them from last year, when I visited them in their countryside farm/estate for a wonderful party. Laura's birthday is the day after mine. Looking forward to celebrating.

With my friend Anthony, from Connecticut. I met him when he was staying in the same hotel on my first visit to Cuenca. He, like me - and for a few years longer than me - comes to Cuenca every winter. Over the last eight years, we've become good friends. This year, he got here a day before me.

Wandering

Technically, this isn't wandering. Here I am at 'Ken's Smoking Table' (what everybody calls it) outside my room in the courtyard of Hostal Yakumama. 

Thinking about how few photos I was taking as I passed by this very familar, famous sign and most-photographed view in Cuenca in Parque San Francisco. The day was so beautiful, and the scene so amazingly uncrowded, I took this shot even though I have dozens of similar ones. But come on, this is just beautiful. I couldn't not.

Walking toward the Goza Cafe, one of the prime places for people watching and great 'coffee and'

in Cuenca. Above, an old church now housing a missionary center gives way to Plaza Merced, with Goza on the other corner. Cuenca is just so beautiful, but in a different way at night. 

One of the three enormous doors in the front of the New Cathedral.

The courtyard of the adjacent church offices and residences. A major tourist attraction, I really like the Peruvian restaurant, El Confesionario, on the second floor with this amazing view of the three domes of the New Cathedral.

Calle Santa Anna at night. On the left is the Cathedral de la Madre Immaculata, aka the New Cathedral. It's called the New Cathedral because it took over a hundred years to complete, finally finished in the 1960s, even though it was started in the 1840s. The door on the left is the entrance to the bell tower. On the left is the former residence, monastery, nunnery, offices, now housing restaurants (mostly).

Food

This trip's first meal: Peruvian tenderloin and rice, from El Confesionario, the restaurant with THE view.

Next morning, at my 'home,' Bistro Yaku, Ken's Special: Fruits with yogurt and granola, and scrambled eggs.

Pistachio cheesecake from Goza Cafe.

I wish I had something to show the scale. This is an enormous bacon and vegetables omelet. It was more than I could finish. And it was delicious. From a newly-opened restaurant, Lumanka Concepto y Sabor.

Also from Bistro Yaku, the shrimp burger and homemade chips is just amazing.

I realize in this picture you can't tell that this is Tom Kha, Thai coconut curry soup. But this was a great surprise, very good. The last time I ate at Thai Connection was six years ago. I was unimpressed then. I'm very impressed now. My favorite (by far) Thai restaurant in Cuenca is a cab ride away. Thai Connection is around the corner and a block away. I'll definitely be back.

The amazing, rustic lasagna a la bolognese from El Mediterraneo. Food's good, and the staff make certain it's a great example of Cuenca's special brand of hospitality.

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